“You must visit Playa de las Catedrales!”
I’ve heard this statement from many Gallegos, but Monse was the first person who acted on this belief.
“I’ll take you. We’ll make a day of it!”
I was thrilled! A car, or some other form of transportation, is necessary if you’re going to see more of Galicia than the city you live in. Blake and I don’t have a Spain valid driver’s license or a car. It was really kind of Monse to offer to take us.
We carefully observed the weather this time, since we didn’t want an A Coruña rainy repeat. However, the coast being the northern Spain coast that it is, weather can change on a dime. Cue the rain.
The autopista, or highway, was covered in dense fog, which prompted a condemnation on the construction of the new highway. La hubieran construido más bajo o en otro lugar. Galicia is known for its fog. The government is trying to find solutions post-construction. (I’ve noticed this isn’t the only time I’ve heard complains about government construction and accusations of corruptions. Example: Airports built, but no planes.)
We arrived to a gray sky, cold rain, and Mary Poppins style wind.
What’s crazy is that sometimes people will rappel off the cliffs to collect barnacles to sell to markets and restaurants, which is illegal and dangerous. That’s part of the reason barnacles are so expensive.
Even though it’s off season, there were still a handful of other visitors. In the summer there are so many people who visit that in order to protect the beach and manage the crowd, you must sign up online.
Afterwards, we went to lunch. We’d been told before that one eats well in Galicia. I love reconfirming this fact. Pero que si se come bien en Galicia!
The table next to us broke out in a traditional Galician song. It was lovely. One woman even added to the music by running a spoon along a crystal bottle of rum. It felt rude to record them, so here’s a YouTube version of the song.
We took the back roads home so we could see the countryside and avoid the foggy highway. These aren’t the best pictures, but I do want to communicate to you the variety here. Forests, fields, hills, mountains, rivers.
The ride home was a calm lullaby. Full bellies, Julieta Venegas on the stereo, good friends for company, and the car hum as we passed rural Galicia. There were times when I thought this could almost be Indiana countryside.